Earth, Wind, and Pie

I’m currently writing from Julian, CA, a small town about 12 miles off the PCT. I’m feeling quite luxurious, as I’ve had my first shower and my first bed since I started hiking on April 18. I’ve made it 77 miles so far. Here’s how I’ve earned my first shower and indoor sleep in 6 days.

On day 2, since my last post, we had a big day ahead, as it was hot and we really wanted to get to mile 26, as there was a good campsite there. It would also allow us to get to Mount Laguna the next day, where we could resupply our food. Day 2 was tough as we were carrying about 4 liters of water (2.2 lbs each) until mile 20 (Lake Morena) and there was a big ascent. By the time we got to the climb it was getting towards midday — it was hot. But, we made it to Lake Morena with a little water to spare. Once we got there, I officially started my junk food tour of America with a stop at the malt shop, where I downed a huge bottle of Gatorade, a root beer float, a hamburger, and fries. Somehow I was not stuffed. As a means to erase from my memory the sheer number of calories I just consumed, we walked another six miles to Boulder Oaks campground at mile 26. The miles were mostly flat and there were a number of other PCT hikers staying there. I was feeling good at this point, as the miles were coming along and the nights weren’t cold.

I’ll save you the suspense, but things got harder on day three. We wanted to make it to Mount Laguna, at mile 41 for a real meal for dinner. Neither I nor my new Australian friend (Keri) had a dinner to cook that night and a sit-down dinner sounded awesome. I was feeling really good for the first half of day 3, but then the bottoms of my feet started hurting like they just walked a lot of miles in two days. I think at a certain point I was only shuffling, rather than walking. I truly don’t think my feet were lifting off the ground. But, despite the pain, I was happy and the views were great, as we were ascending to about 6,000 feet. And I was excited for my meal. (This becomes a theme.)

A ray of sunshine on the way to Mount Laguna. Mostly thinking of the meal I had thought I was going to get in a few hours.

We got to Mount Laguna around 4pm. Plenty of time we thought. At about 4:15, we found the one restaurant in the town, a town which shockingly has its own zip code. As we walked up, we saw the dreaded sign: CLOSED. A few other hikers sitting outside told us it closed at 4:00 pm! I was cursing those shuffling slow feet. There were a couple of other places in the town; we were going to be okay. Next restaurant: CLOSED. Wasn’t opening for another few weeks. Next spot, a hiker store. They would surely be open and have meals we could buy to make. CLOSED. We had one final option, the general store. I sprinted. No time for shuffling. We got there at 4:45 and they closed at 5:00. PHEW. I bought myself some ramen, a banana, peanut M&Ms, and some Fritos as an appetizer. I couldn’t believe how insane this meal actually was. Since when did I eat Fritos and Ramen? Now I eat Fritos and Ramen.

Mount Laguna is a crime-ridden place.

After setting up my tent, I made my carb-sodium dinner. It was a warm meal and I was happy not to be eating three bars and the remaining trail mix I had as dinner. As the sun set, I realized it was going to be a cold one. Because it was a public campsite, there was a bathroom. And boy, was this bathroom warm, clean, and large. As I stood there brushing my teeth with two other PCT hikers, all of us were thinking the same thing: would this be the first night in our lives that we sleep in a public restroom? It was warm, clean, and large enough for all of us. Honestly, if I hadn’t already set up my tent, I would have. The decision was out of pure laziness, not from trying to preserve any sort of pride. The temperature got down to about freezing that night, but we made it through the night. Deserts get cold.

As we packed up our things that morning, another hiker told us of a wind and rain storm coming in that night. We took note, but wanted to move along as it was going to be windy and rainy wherever we were. After eating breakfast at the previously closed restaurant (it was delicious) and resupplying at the general store with about 2-3 days worth of food, we were off. Our goal was to make it to a campsite at about mile 52. Short day to give the legs a little rest.

At the 50-mile mark! And yes, that is popcorn strapped to the top of my pack. Lightweight and delicious. Must have easy food access at all times.

As we descended down the ridge, the winds really started to pick up. We made it to the campsite. Think of what seems like a lot of wind and multiply that by 10. Another hiker, Illy (a production manager who was living in LA), thought it would be a good idea if we share my tent for warmth. I was all in. After walking around the campsite for about 30 minutes, we found the perfect spot — mostly flat and totally surrounded by bushes so you could barely feel the wind. We set up camp and braced for what lay ahead that night. The winds got up to 70 mph, it rained, it hailed. But we survived. It’s all about campsite selection, a good tent pitch, and having a friend to get you through a night when no one was sleeping.

7:30 am, April 21.

The rain finally stopped, but the wind didn’t. Yet, we wanted to keep going. A bed and a shower was only two days away if we made some miles. The wind was actually ridiculous. At times, I didn’t even need to walk because the wind just pushed me along. At other times, I couldn’t walk because the wind just kept me in place. But, I made it to mile 68.3, where some other hikers had set up camp for the night.

Figured I should take at least one photo this day. I was mostly too cold to stop. That is an upside-down water bottle. It fits better that way.

Camp for the night.

April 23. Our first town day. Julian was only 8.7 easy miles ahead. It was a beautiful day. Now I was tasting a bed and a hot shower.

Around noon, we made it to the road to find a ride (aka a hitch) to Julian. Very quickly, a trail angel picked us up and soon we were in Julian, a very cute small town with at least five different pie shops. But, I was set on Mom’s pie shop, where they give free pie, ice cream, and a drink to PCT hikers. After stopping in the gear store, getting lunch, and an unsuccessful hunt for postcards, we got our pie. Wow, it was good.

If you are in Julian, go to Mom’s!

PCT photo shoot!

We finally checked into our room, took a hot shower and “washed” our clothes in the tub. No amount of hand washing was sufficient. My shirt is still brown.

I got a great meal at the brewery in town and wrote this. It’s now way past my bedtime. Hiker midnight is 8:00 pm.